担担面Dan Dan Noodles

Heat 1 tbsp neutral oil in a wok. Fry 150 g ground pork over medium-high, breaking it up, until dry, brown and crisp at the edges.

Add 1 tbsp Shaoxing wine, 1 tsp light soy sauce and 1 tsp dark soy sauce, then 2 tbsp preserved mustard greens (ya cai) if using. Stir a minute more and set aside.

Divide 4 tbsp chili oil, 2 tbsp Chinese sesame paste, 2 tbsp light soy sauce, 2 tsp Chinese black vinegar, 1 tsp sugar, ½ tsp ground Sichuan peppercorn and 2 garlic cloves between two bowls and stir each into a paste.

Boil 200 g fresh thin wheat noodles until just tender, following the package time. Add 2 handfuls bok choy or choy sum for the last minute.

Stir 2 or 3 tablespoons of the hot noodle water into each bowl of sauce to loosen it.

Divide noodles and greens between the bowls. Top with the pork, 2 tbsp roasted peanuts and 1 scallion. Toss everything at the table.